Snowy Splendor in Saugatuck
By Nancy Casey-Jones
Some might say the southeast shore of Lake Michigan is only for long and lazy summer days, but nothing is quite as serenely beautiful as snowy wintertime in the little artists’ colony of Saugatuck. In January the crowds are gone, only a few shops are open, and restaurants serve up hearty fare to beat any winter blues, allowing visitors to linger awhile and admire falling snowflakes on quiet streets.
Any time of year, the best place to stay in Saugatuck is The Wickwood Inn, hands down. Located just a couple of blocks from the lake, the charmingly elegant colonial-style farmhouse is owned and operated by Julee Rosso Miller and her husband Bill, she of the famed Silver Palate series of cookbooks. With a pedigree like that, you know you’re in for some real treats and the Wickwood doesn’t disappoint.
Arriving late on a frigid night with snow drifts piled high all around, the Inn looked positively magical with its sculpturally bare trees and snow-laden hedges lit up with an abundance of welcoming tiny white twinkle lights. Betty the innkeeper had left us envelopes with our keys and handwritten notes welcoming us to the Inn and inviting us to stop in the bar area for a little homemade apple brandy and brownies “to sweeten our dreams” should we desire. No urging needed; we made a beeline for the cozy bar as soon as we dropped off our luggage in our rooms.
The heart of the Wickwood is the traditionally appointed living room just off the entry foyer where curling up on comfy couches with a good book in front of the fireplace while watching fat snowflakes fall and long icicles form is a perfect way to pass the time. Done in soft blue-greens and creamy yellows, accented with soothing art, much of it original, and always-fresh flowers, the living room was like a warm hug on a cold day.
Rosso Miller’s philosophy is apparent in virtually every element that surrounds you at the Wickwood—this is definitely a haven of escape from the pressures of the outside world.
“We want your experience here to be about relaxation first and foremost,” says the engaging proprietress. “With no telephones in the rooms, and no TVs either, Wickwood is a place to disconnect from the rest of the world and reconnect with whom or what is most important to you.”
For those who can’t bear the thought of being away from television, there is a large flat panel TV in the bar area with its accompanying masculine décor of hunter green walls, well-stocked library and overstuffed leather furnishings.
 If the living room and bar area serve as the heart of this early 20th century 11-guest-room Inn, then surely the soul of it is found in the sublime food prepared fresh daily, for which Rosso Miller is most famous. Hearty yet healthy breakfasts provide plenty of fuel to run on all day long while happy hour hors d’oeuvres are substantial and varied enough to consider forgoing supper—almost!
In a lovely sunken spacious dining room off the Inn’s living room guests can enjoy privacy at separate tables in the soothing sea-green décor. Unlike other B&B experiences, you’re not forced to sit at a large common table and make new friends every morning at breakfast, although it’s easy enough to do just that if you’re so inclined.
Typically breakfasts are served buffet style; guests serve themselves from a groaning sideboard laden with fabulous taste treats in the adjoining Toy Room. The Toy Room overlooks a lovely deck and gardens out back.
Even though the wintertime garden was filled with snow and the gazebo stacked with patio furniture waiting for summertime, we could sense how gorgeous the Inn’s outdoor areas would be in warmer weather.
“The biggest draw at the Wickwood is most definitely the food—wherever possible we feature fresh, local and natural cuisine,” claims Rosso Miller, borne out by our gastronomically delightful experience there.
One morning we started with a bowl of fresh berries including strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries with a luxurious crème fraiche alongside, followed by a delicious egg scramble redolent with chopped tomatoes, delicate asparagus and feta cheese. “Dessert” was freshly baked pecan sticky buns that conjured memories of Grandma’s and were just as finger-licking good.
As if that weren’t enough, a tiny pot de crème of the most exquisitely light chocolate mousse imaginable finished us off—quite literally. One bite sent us over the moon and although we desperately wanted to finish it, we simply could not. Kind Betty offered to wrap ours up so we could enjoy it much, much later for midnight munchies.
The evening repast at Wickwood gives entirely new meaning to the phrase “happy hour” and by the looks of the intimate gathering of guests on this snowy winter weekend, there was plenty to be happy about.
Many had brought their own wines and libations to accompany a spread of seafood salsa, creamy patés made from local game, antipasti-style sausages and savory prosciutto, house-made olives, crispy potato fries and a mouth-watering assortment of local cheeses that were heavenly on fresh baguette slices and flatbread crackers. Crudités and globes of grapes rounded out the appetizers, all enjoyed next to the crackling fire by a friendly and increasingly relaxed group of escapees from stressful Chicago workweeks.
Rooms at the Wickwood are testament to Rosso Miller’s international travels and exquisite sense of art and design. The two-story inn has seven rooms and four suites, all with private baths.
Each guest quarters has its own unique theme and lovely décor. Forget the frilly flower-bedecked walls and Victoriana-on-steroids décor that is too often found in so many B & B’s—here it’s elegantly cozy and comfortably unpretentious. Each of the suites has its own fireplace and sitting area, making them a favorite with winter visitors.
Emphasis is on luxury and pampering, from soft warm down comforters, highest-thread-count sheets, fluffy featherbeds and thick towels to a generous supply of top-of-the-line spa products. Robes are provided and lots of books to choose from in case you forgot to bring reading material. A stereo and CD collection, fresh flowers and always something to nibble on (a bowlful of crisp apples graced my room) make you feel right at home, only better.
Although many of the fine galleries and great shops in Saugatuck are shuttered during the week in winter, most open for the weekend visitors. There are still plenty of restaurants to choose from within a 10-mile radius, most notably The Journeyman in nearby Fennville.
There’s plenty to do even in cold weather. Traipsing through pristine snow drifts, strolling along the icy windswept waterfront or window shopping between dashes into a warm coffee house, are just a few ways to spend winter days in Saugatuck.
Better yet, just hanging out by the comforting fireplace was all the proof we needed that when the days are short and nights are long, it’s warm and cozy all winter long at the beautiful Wickwood Inn.
Rates at the Wickwood range from $175-365, depending on season, and include hors d’oeuvres, snacks and breakfast.
Wickwood Inn, 510 Butler Street, Saugatuck, MI, 49453
Telephone (800) 385-1174 or (269) 857-1465
For more information visit www.wickwoodinn.com
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